The Roads Less and More Travelled

Our group went in seperate directions, the Swedes flew to Mocambique, Canadian Paul and American Scott went to Zanzibar whilst us remaining four headed over the lush green hills into Burundi. According to unconfirmed facts Burundi is the poorest country in the world, something I find a bit hard to believe. Our visas only allowed us to stay for three days so as soon as we had found a hotel we got started on finding out was on offer in the capital Bujumbura, it turns out they have a busy market, a nice empty beach on Lake Tanganiyka and an amusing nightscene. After two nights we had to leave the country and while Eric went up to Kenya, the lure of beach-life made the other three of us get on a 30-hour busride across the entire width of Tanzania to Dar Es Salaam. In Dar we got a ferry across to the island of Zanzibar and it's capital Stonetown. Stonetown has shades of Lamu with it's Swahili architecture and twisting maze of alleys, but on a much larger scale. We slept one night in town and then headed up the coast to the paradise beach of Kendwa, where Canadian Paul and Scott were waiting. I don't use the word paradise lightly but this stretch of white sand definetly qualifies and I could easily have gotten stuck here for a very a long time but luckily I woke up one morning to the sound of rain which convinced me to get back into travelling mode and return to Stonetown. I stayed overnight and got lost in the labyrinth for a while and then got the ferry back to Dar Es Salaam  where I slept two nights before deciding that I was done with Tanzania and got a bus towards Malawi.

Mr Lava Man

After acquiring all the necessary paperwork required for our trip west, Mitchell and the three Pauls caught a bus to the Rwandan town of Gisenyi. We spent two nights here next to Lake Kivu preparing for our journey into The Democratic Republic of Congo, a rule of thumb that I have about countries is that if a nation puts the word Democratic in it's title it most likely does not exercise democracy. Crossing into the town of Goma didn't prove too difficult though as there were no bribes required and no real hassle. Our main reason for coming to this part of Africa was to climb Mount Nyiragongo which is the most active Volcano on the continent and had it's last devastating outbreak in 2002. The five hour ascent to the top through rainforest and over volcanic rock and lava-rubble was strenuous but once we reached the peak and could peer down into the largest lava-lake in the world, it was all well worth it as it was easily one of the most fascinating sights I have ever encountered. We spent hours just staring into the mesmerising effect of the red liquid below, then slept in cabins on the rim of the crater and started our descent early the morning after. Back in Goma we had a relaxed night out and checked out the huge market the following day. Our plan was then to head back into Rwanda but after a brief meeting with Major Arsene who is head of security in the region all that had changed. Instead we once again linked up with the two other Swedes and Americans and were having Scotch Whisky for lunch and acquainting ourselves with his various mistresses protected by two macho bodyguards. Needless to say we did not make it across the border that evening but had a night out which I doubt any of us will forget any time soon. Our second attempt at leaving the country was more successful and once we were back in Gisenyi we had a quick lunch and got a bus to Kigali. We spent a couple of nights in the capital and at the time of writing we are all preparing for one final night out before the crew will split and head in different directions.

Rwandabe

The bordercrossing was an easy one for me as Swedes for some reason are among the 4 non African nationalities which get free entry to Rwanda. Arriving in the capital was a bit of a shock as everything was so unafrican: clean, wide, palmlined avenues with streetlights, flowing traffic and drivers following traffic rules, buses with set prices, motorcycle taxis who will only take one passenger and offer helmets were just some of the crazy first impressions that met us. Rwanda has a very tragic history though as most of you probably know, just 18 years ago one of the crulest and most brutal genocides ever took place in the small landlocked country as over 1 million people were killed in a hundred days. We spent almost two weeks in Kigali visiting some of the sights, including a brilliant memorial museum, a couple of churches just outside the city which witnessed some of the worst massacers and Hotel Milles Collines where the events of the Hollywood movie "Hotel Rwanda" took place. Our visit to Rwanda happened to coincide with "Memorial Week" where the country pretty much shuts down to mourn the victims of the genocide. The first week we stayed in a youth hostel but then found out about a hotel which was going to be closed to the public due to the remembrance, so we linked up with a third Paul from England, two Swedes, an American and Mitchell who showed up in the fourth consecutive country, to turn the empty grounds into a boy's club complete with swimmingpool, tabletennis-, fussball- and pool-table. The main reason we all spent so long here was because we were waiting for our Congolese visas to be approved, which has now happened and thus we shall be making a move shortly...